It’s back? Is it an ‘indie sleaze revival’ thing?Įmily Keegin: “It was back. Ok, let’s talk about flash in photography. It’s almost algorithmic.”Ĭoncorde: There’s a weird inadvertent beauty to Google Image Search - it can create a collage where you get these random adjacencies from around the internet. It’s incredible how non-linear the images become. The barrage of imagery that we get online, and the lack of context… How images are re-contextualized when seen next to random images on the internet. “And it’s come full circle: One of the biggest trends in the last 10 years has been collage in photography. They brought with them the concept of collage, and that brings the white background into the editorial space. They began doing collage and removing the horizon line, and then they entered the editorial world because they got hired by Condé Nast. “It all started around that time with the surrealists. Hannah Höch: Untitled, 1930 and “Cut with the Kitchen Knife Dada Through the Last Weimar Beer-Belly Cultural Epoch of Germany”, 1919-1920. Sara Cwynar: “A Rococo Base”, 2018, and “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date (fake) from perfectrolex.io”, 2022. It’s also a reaction to how clean things are online, and it’s the same instinct in fashion: we want to show patina and the sense of something that’s been worn.” It’s like scrapbooking from the ‘90s, which was also largely something women were into. And they have similar histories - mainly done by women. ’ It’s a reaction to fast fashion, and climate change, and over-consumption in fashion, along with a desire to see things made by a human hand. Mending speaks to the same feeling, like, ‘We already have enough. Part of collage is about this overwhelming feeling of how much content is available - and that’s not a positive feeling. Expound on that for us…Įmily Keegin: “Oh s**t, yes, I think the collage and mending trends are coming from a similar place and influence. Bottom row: Sinna Nasseri portraits of Bret Easton Ellis and Michelle Williams.Ĭoncorde: You recently texted me about how there’s a current trend toward collage in photography that you see as connected with the mending trend that’s been happening in fashion…. Middle row: Harley Weir campaign photo for Manu Atelier and Cate Blanchett for AnOther Magazine. Top row: Chantal Anderson portraits of Greta Lee and John Cale. And Harley Weir is doing amazing work for Another magazine.” The person who I often bring up on Instagram is Sinna Nasseri. Celebrity photography is so f**king hard and she seems to find these really authentic moments with people. So it’s a thrill to watch people continue to work on an idea after the photo’s taken - where and how a photo is placed and contextualized makes a huge difference.”Ĭoncorde: You’re always sharing amazing work on your Instagram - what contemporary photographers should we keep an eye on?Įmily Keegin: “ Chantal Anderson is great. In editorial photography the same is true, but we tend to forget that. But in art school we were taught that the art doesn’t stop once the photo is taken: The second part is how you present it and frame it, all of those choices matter. With most magazines, the structure and templates remain the same and you have to work within them. The format and designs they choose reinforce whatever they’re doing editorially. “And Buffalo is really great - they change their whole structure every issue. It’s a portrait slammed next to still life, slammed next to close-up textures.”Įmily showing me some issues of MacGuffin and Buffalo from her stash They smush genres all together, it’s never just portraiture. They’re thinking about photography as a tool, which I find really exciting. They’re using photography as an equal partner in storytelling - I hate to use that word- but they use and abuse a photograph to help move a story forward. “But MacGuffin magazine is doing amazing things. In part that’s because it’s hard to break the frame online: Things come in preset squares and grids, they’re all in the same composition that’s friendly to online scrolling, vertical scrolling. We’re in a moment of being very conscious of the frame, and respecting the photo frame. What magazines are doing especially interesting things right now with print and digital photo editing?Įmily Keegin: “There aren’t a lot of risks happening in editing at the moment in magazines - the things I really love aren’t happening in layout design. Concorde: Photographers usually get all the glory, but you highlight the power of photo editing brilliantly on your IG - pointing out the ways photos interact with each other in a layout, drawing horizon and gaze lines over images to show what’s happening compositionally, like a football coach mapping out plays.
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